That would be the spot. However, if you're drilling into this, how are you keeping the shavings out of the oil pan? I've been told there is a trick to do this but didn't try it on mine. Looks like you are already through to the sump with your pilot hole.

 

Actually that pilot hole hadn't even made it yet. Trick I used was some wheel bearing grease on the drill bit. Still not sure that I'm comfortable with it though, so I might begin the task of pulling the oil pan.... but I got it tapped

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That's the trick I heard too and drill slow so the excess material sticks in the grease. I don't know what turbo you're going with but if you drill that hole the LNF's K04 turbo's return line slides right in.

Pulling the oil pan requires lifting or pulling the engine out of the car. Not a small task. This is why I didn't go that route and instead returned it to the water pump cover plate.

 

That is a great idea!

I have already completed the oil return however, and rinsed it through with quite about ten qts of oil and several metal shavings escaped the oil pan when I did so, think I'm bearing through the oil pan job to be safe. Plus the oil pan was leaking a bit anyway.

I will keep the post updated with the oil pan gasket replacement and cleaning the engine.


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Thank you sir I look forward to hearing how it goes. Honestly, I wish I would have known about the grease in the drill bit trick when I did mine as I probably would have gone that route instead. In the end, you get a more factory like oil return though I will say my setup seems to be working well.

 

I went through a lot of mechanizations' getting an oil cooler and pressure gauge installed on my car. I ended up installing a remote oil filter fitting that gives AN 10 fitting connectivity directly to the oil system. DDM sells one
Ecotec Oil Filter Adapter by DDMWorks

With it you could run a line directly from the turbo output to the oil filter return line and not have to make any additional penetrations. Pretty straight forward. The challenge is then routing the hose but that may be easier than drilling out the pan. Just a thought

Find pictures

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CBM-10813-E...tec-2-2L-2-4L-L61-LE5-remote-oil-filter-adapter-cooler-billet-USA-/221159318437

 

I went through a lot of mechanizations' getting an oil cooler and pressure gauge installed on my car. I ended up installing a remote oil filter fitting that gives AN 10 fitting connectivity directly to the oil system. DDM sells one
Ecotec Oil Filter Adapter by DDMWorks

With it you could run a line directly from the turbo output to the oil filter return line and not have to make any additional penetrations. Pretty straight forward. The challenge is then routing the hose but that may be easier than drilling out the pan. Just a thought

Find pictures

CBM-10813 Ecotec 2.2L 2.4L L61 LE5 remote oil filter adapter cooler billet USA | eBay

Interesting. I know with my setup there has been some debate about the oil flow backing up into the turbo if you don't have it setup right...wonder if this would have a less likely chance of that happening. The OEM straight down setup is most ideal but shavings in your oil sure isn't.

 

Another awesome idea! Really wish I would have written this post before I began drilling

The finished product....

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Well, I'm glad I pulled the oil pan.

1. For shavings in the oil pan.
2. It allowed me to bore the bottom of the hole a bit better.

The labor time guide my dealer uses show it pays about 13 hours to complete this job, took me about 5 but I would not recommend this repair for the faint of heart or most backyard mechanic.

I removed both engine mounts (and replaced them, they were trashed) and the trans mount in order to lift the engine/trans as high as I could. Then it was a game of Tetris to get the pan out. Even harder yet was reinstalling with GM RTV applied without scraping the RTV off against anything. But fired the car up for the first time on Sunday.

Next step is some spark plugs and a tuning shop as I am running way too rich at the moment.

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Yea, see that's why I didn't want to drill the block. LOL

So how hard was it to get all the mounts out? I think mine are gone and may replace them. You should see the engine jump when it was on the dyno. LOL

What did the mounts run you too, if you don't mind me asking...

 

The mounts themselvess are super simple. I bought a set in a pinch since I was halfway through the job plus I can't leave my car half finished in the shop at the end of the weekend. So I didn't shop around, I bought the first set that was available at about $150


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And that's all three? Cool. I'll have to pick some up. 100K+ on the clock and they look like they need to be done.

 

I only did the two engine mounts. They fell to pieces and spilled hydraulic fluid everywhere upon removal


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Maybe I'll start with those. Certainly would help. Finding them individually on eBay for under $50 each.

 

Jacob,

How deep was the hole when you made it through? In other words, how much depth did you have to drill to make it through into the crankcase?

I am about to do this and it would be most helpful.

I would prefer to drill the majority of the hole dry (say, 90% of the depth) and vacuum out the shavings to that point. That would allow me to keep most (90%ish) of the shavings out right off the bat. Then I would proceed with the packed grease technique for the rest of the way, cleaning in-between each very short step of progress. This would require knowing the depth (with some degree of accuracy anyway).